See Crete in a Week

Where should I be based?the coach parties that arrive later in the morning.
There are four major towns or cities in Crete,From Knossos it is worth going up to Archanes
which are roughly equidistant. Starting in the west,for a coffee in the main square, (you will have to
with Chania, it is 55km to the smaller, but equallypark the car and walk to it) This is the wine
charming city of Rethymnon. A further 78 kmgrowing centre of the island. Several wineries in
takes you to Heraklion, the capital and from therethe area have tasting rooms and audio visual
to Agios Nikolaos is 66km. The driving time frompresentations which are well signposted. From
each one to the next is around an hour butArchanes take the road to Kastelli.
remember that there are other smaller townsAgios Nikoalos and Lassithi
beyond the main towns, 70km to the east ofFrom Kastelli, take the road to Hersonissos for
Agios Nikolaos (Sitia)and 42 km west of Chaniaabout 8km and then turn towards Avdou. Follow
(KIssamos).this road up to the Lassithi Plateau, the legendary
West Cretebirthplace of Zeus. When you drop down to the
Base yourself in Chania for the first night andplateau itself, turn right and take the
enjoy the ambience of the old town. Chania is aanti-clockwise route around the base of the
large bustling city and many people are suprisedprehistoric lake, now one of the most fertile areas
that it resembles the tourism photos only in ain Crete. It is astounding to realise just how high
very small area around the old harbour. A majorup in the mountains you are. The cave of Zeus,
consideration in planning your trip to Crete shouldthe Dhiktean cave, is reached by a turning off the
be, that if you are in the west, there are justroad and you can treat yourself to a donkey ride
four roads running from the north coast to theif you don't fancy the walk to the cave. The cave
south coast. If you plan to visit Elafonissi youitself is very cold and can be quite slippery so
cannot just cut along the coast to Paleochora.make sure you are prepared. Amazing stalagmites
You will need to go at least halfway back to theand stalactites abound in the cave and it is easy
north coast before you can cut across to theto see why it was a place of worship to the
next road, joining it at Kandanos. It is possible toearth godess in earlier times. From the cave
take a pretty "interesting" road from Paleochoracontinue ant-clockwise via Agios Giorgos to Agios
to Sougia but probably best to take the mainKonstantinos. Turn right, following the signs to
road out of Chania if you want to get there. TheAgios Nikolaos for a fabulous view over the
road to Samaria Gorge will take you to the headplateau from a taverna at the top of the hill.
of the gorge but the only way out when you getFollow the road down through Potamos for a
to the coast is by ferry to Sfakia. This really is aspectacular 30km drive down the side of the
case where it is better to use an organised tripmountains.
via a local travel agent. In order to visit Sfakia (orAgios Nikolaos is an excellent place to stay for a
Chora Sfakion) it is best to leave the Nationalnight, with a great cafe bar culture and excelent
Road at Vrises and head for the spectacular droptavernas and restaurants. It is no longer an
down to the coast. Turn right at the bottom for"18-30" resort and suprises many people with its
Sfakia, or left for Frangokastello, with itscosmopolitan atmosphere. From Agios Nikolaos,
spectacular castle.drive 9km north to Elounda, great for a morning
Rethymnoncoffee by the harbour. Drive on to Plaka and take
From Frangokastello, it is relatively simple to getthe small boat to the Venetian fortress and
to Rethymnon, which is worth spending a night in,former leper colony of Spinalonga. This is the
if only for the fabulous restaurants and thequick way, but you can also get regular trips from
atmosphere in the old town. In the morning,the habour in Elounda or half day trips leaving at
re-trace the route but follow the signs for Spili,12.30 from Agios Nikolaos. Go back to Agios
with its famous fountain and waters, down toNikolaos and follow the signs to Sitia. Follow the
Agia Galini and on to Matala and the charming littleroad to Pachia Ammos and turn south to
villages of Pitsidia and Kalamaki. From here it is aIerapetra. It is worth following the signs a few km
short drive to the major Minoan site of Phaistosdown the road on the left, to Monastiraki, just to
and the Roman archaeology at Gortyna. Thetry the kafeneion in the village, which is a real
bustling market town of Moires leads to the roadgem. The gorge, a huge cleft in the side of the
to Heraklion, much of which is newly built, makingmountains also makes for a great photograph.
it a simple drive to the island capital.Ierapetra itself has a small Venetian fort but is
Heraklionprobably best bypassed in favour of a run along
Imagine London, in the rush hour, on Christmasthe Libyan Sea coast to Makrigialos, or a stop at
Eve, filled with irate taxi drivers. That is prettyany of the small coves such as Agia Fotia. From
much what you will find when you arrive inMakrigialos, you can cut north over the mountains
Heraklion, so don't say you were not warned. It isto Sitia and then back along the north coast to
better to stay on the outskirts and get a cab intoMochlos for an overnight stay and a lovely
the town if you want to see the sights like theharbourside taverna. The airport, via the National
church of Agios Minas, the Morosini Fountain, theHighway, is about one and a half hours away.
loggia, the (limited at the moment) ArchaeologicalSo there you go. Crete can be seen in a week
museum and the fascinating History museum. Thebut it is pretty hectic way of spending a holiday.
fortress on the harbour is well worth a visit andTwo weeks is a far better option and it gives
you will be amazed at how big it is when you getyou the opportunity to savour the true beauty
inside. The next morning, visit Knossos, a few kmand the majestic landscapes of the island of
outside the city. Get there early and you will avoidCrete.